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Tuesday, November 17, 2015

The Exhausted Tourist

We are half way through November so it must be about time to do some writing on this blog. We are slowly working our way through the southern states and have arrived in Texas. We’ll be checking into Palm Dale in 14 days.

Leaving Birmingham wasn’t as easy as you would think. When we signed up to stay for a week we decided it would be a good idea to have our mail forwarded from South Dakota. Plenty of time to get mail. Unfortunately I didn’t think of it until Tuesday… but still 4 days… it should be there by Saturday. I called the local post office in Hoover where we were staying and they said they couldn’t accept General Delivery mail. It would have to go to the main post office in Birmingham. So I called them to make sure it would work and got the street address to make sure it went to the right post office. We showed up on Friday morning prepared to get our mail and see the highlights of Birmingham. No luck. Maybe it would be there in the afternoon. We stopped by in the afternoon. Still no mail. They are closed Saturday. We could pick it up Monday morning before we left town. Inconvenient, but we still could do it. On Monday we packed up the camper and left it in the campground, drove to downtown Birmingham. Our mail wasn’t there. We had checked the routing number and knew that it was somewhere in Birmingham. We made them track it. It was in a truck somewhere but they didn’t know which one.  

We decided to pick up the camper and move it to a WalMart in Alabaster, Alabama, about 20 miles south, and prepare to stay there overnight. We would have to come back to the post office again later in the afternoon. So we did that and had some time. We noticed a big AMC theatre across the parking lost so we took in a movie “Truth” which, incidentally, is a pretty good movie.
As we were walking across the parking lot after the movie there was a car parked right behind our car which seemed strange as we were on the far side of the parking lot and there was plenty of parking closer to the store. Then we noticed the car moving a bit. We expected it to leave but instead it went into reverse and turned sharply going up over a curb. We couldn’t tell at the time but it did manage to hit the corner of our bumper putting a hole in the plastic and scratch the side. So then we had to go through the process of calling the police, getting an accident report and calling the insurance company. Fortunately, they had insurance and when we get to Texas we’ll get the car fixed. The young couple driving the car were really worried and wanted to just pay us to get the car fixed. The young woman had been playing around with the gear shift and didn’t realize what she was doing. She had her driver’s permit but no license. They were greatly relieved that since they were on private property she wouldn’t get a ticket. We still had time to get to town before the post office closed. When we got there the worker checked and said our mail wasn’t there and then looked at us like she expected us to just walk away. We explained that it had to be there. She turned it over to her supervisor and we waited and waited. Finally, a woman showed up with our mail. When we had been coming in to Birmingham from the south on I65 we noticed the southbound traffic backed up and going slow all the way to Alabaster. We figured there must have been an accident or something. Not so. This is normal rush hour traffic going out of Birmingham. It took us over an hour. The moral of the story is “Don’t try to get general delivery mail in Birmingham and avoid having to travel south on I65 between 4:00 PM and about 8:00 PM.” I guess I should just be happy that I don’t have any bigger problems than this.

The next day we headed down the road to Montgomery but first we had to deal with our towing hitch. There are plastic caps on the little things that pop up and lock the tow bar in place when you start driving. It is very important for this process to work or one side of the car slides in and out creating the potential for lots of damage. When you stop, you are supposed to push down on the button to release the bars so that the car is easy to disconnect. We have found that just pushing with your thumb doesn’t do the job so we pop it with the hammer. Well I figured that if one pop doesn’t work I need to hit it harder and if that doesn’t work, harder yet. Well I smashed the damn thing to bits when we were in Alabaster and when we started out it was not working right as I described earlier. Don did a temporary fix with duct tape and we headed down to Montgomery. Actually we stayed at the Wind Creek Casino in Wetumpka for 3 days. While we were there we talked to the technicians about the hitch and they suggested using a tie strap instead of duct tape so that is what we are doing until we can find a replacement part.  We’ve added a rubber band as well.

While in Montgomery, we visited the State Capitol building which is largely unused now and the first Confederate White house which is across the street. President and Mrs. Davis lived here where they originally planned to have the confederate capital
until they decided that Richmond was a better location. When we arrived at the house an older man was seated on a park bench under the trees waiting for the workers to return from lunch and open the building. He was wearing a confederate style hat and sporting a shirt with the letters NAACP with an X over the top made of the stars and bars of the confederate flag. He said that he was waiting for them to open so he could pick something up. He made me uneasy and we didn’t engage in any small talk. We were a block down the street from The Civil Rights Memorial and Center and 2 blocks from The Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church.

I’m not sure if it is significant but I observed no security at the Confederate White House but the Civil Rights Center had us go through a metal detector and the guard was wearing a Kevlar vest. The Civil Rights Memorial is a beautiful black circular fountain with the names of the heroes of the movement etched in the surface with water flowing over the entire top. You are encouraged to put your hand on the surface and feel the names with the water flowing over it. My favorite place in Montgomery has to be the Dexter Avenue Church which is across from the State Capitol Steps where the marchers came to hear Martin Luther King talk. Governor Wallace wouldn’t let him speak from the top of the steps so the Sunday school lectern that is still in use today was set up on a platform and he spoke from there. I was given a tour by my tour guide, Wanda. Wanda showed me the Sunday school lectern, we went into the pastor’s office where he wrote his ser
mons and met with other leaders of the Civil Rights movement. We then went up to the sanctuary and I walked behind the pulpit and put my hands on the same sides as MLK put his when he preached about peace, love and nonviolence. Some day these things will probably be put behind velvet ropes and in glass covered cases to keep the oily hands of tourists off. But for now they are still in use in this church that is very much alive. I described to Wanda the old man that we saw at the Confederate capital and the shirt he was wearing. She worriedly said that she heard that the KKK is actively recruiting. I felt some alarm and reminded myself that she had locked the door of the church when I came in for the tour…still plenty reasons to be afraid, courageous or both. Wanda is one of those true Christians who make you hopeful for humanity. She sings beautifully and made me join her in “This Little Light of Mine” which I couldn’t really follow because she made it all gospelly. We ended the tour with “We Shall Overcome” which I could follow having gone to college in the late 60’s. She gives tours on the hour throughout the day except for lunch time. The day I was there, she had 2 people before me at 1:00, me at 2:00 and a couple at 3:00 while I left.

On our way back from Montgomery that day, we stopped at Ft. Toulouse/Ft. Jackson in Watumpka. The first Europeans to come here was DeSoto in about 1520. In 1717 the French claimed this place and built the first fort. The French lost this territory to the British who didn’t have much use for it. Andrew Jackson came through in 1814 – you know the song. He built another fort
and went about the business of convincing the Creek Indians to give all their land to the US. While we were there the place was getting set up for a big reenactment for the weekend along with a lot of booths for selling wares. We, of course were leaving the next day and missed this event. You would think that since we have no schedule that we could do whatever we wanted but that is not the case. I can’t remember why we couldn’t stay for the weekend.

So we headed down the road to Mobile where we stayed at Johnny’s RV Resort in Theodore, Alabama. Now I remember why we moved. It was the weather and our full tanks. We wanted to get some place where we could sit still while it poured down rain and dump our tanks. Johnny’s is a beautiful park. It is filled with hundreds of huge live oak trees that provide a canopy blocking out most of the sunshine. And that’s a good thing in southern Alabama. The trees also rain acorns at this time of year. Part of our preparation for leaving was for Don to climb up and sweep acorns from the tops of our slides before we brought them in. We also discovered a couple of leaks in the camper during the rain storm so Don did the research and learned how to replace the sealant around the sky light in the bathroom and some places in the front. We will soon find out if the leaks are stopped because we expect a couple of inches of rain again tomorrow. We took a couple of “administrative” days to do the laundry, make granola, buy groceries, fix leaks and wash the camper. We haven’t totally lost our industriousness though we took time to walk around the small lake in the back of the campground a few times and laid on the couch for one rainy day while I read and Don watched football. We took a day and toured Mobile on their trolley and had lunch at Wintzell’s Oyster House. We drove through the tunnel over to the island and toured the USS Alabama, a huge WWII Battleship. The next sunny day, we drove to Dauphin Island where we toured Fort Gaines which is where in 1864, Admiral Farragut famously said, “Damn the torpedos. Full speed ahead!” and managed to secure the Port of Mobile for the Union. Sometimes when someone says something like that they become famous. Other times it never gets recorded because no one that heard him say that survives. After that we walked the trails of the Audubon Bird Sanctuary.

We saw very few birds but the mosquitoes were ferocious. In case you Minnesota people don’t know this, Alabama claims the mosquito as their state bird. I think maybe they are right since they have a much longer mosquito breeding season. On our way back to Johnny’s we stopped at Bayou La Batre and picked up some fresh caught shrimp for supper.



We left Alabama on November 12

and went as far as Hammond, Louisiana, just north of Lake Pontchartrain, where we stayed at Hidden Oaks RV Resort. Their campground had been recently flooded and was kind of muddy but at least the camp site was level. The next day we drove around the area south of the lake to see what there is of evidence of Hurricane Katrina. The area we saw was pretty much rebuilt. There were a few vacant areas that may have had buildings before the hurricane. We saw some heavy duty levies recently built and areas where construction continues on the levy. My brain is weary of being a tourist so I was content to drive back to Hammond. On the way back we stopped at Middendorf’s Seafood on a remote tip of a peninsula between Lake Pontchatrain and the lake next to it. They are famous for thin fried catfish. We split an order of that. While it tasted good, it consisted mostly of the cornmeal breading fried crisply and a tiny flattened fillet of catfish that you could hardly see. We met a couple Yvon & Rose who spoke mainly French from Quebec. Communication was difficult but we told them about the French speaking Canadians who live at Palmdale in the winter and encouraged them to come there. Hopefully we will see them again.
We stopped for a night at L’auBerge Casino in Baton Rouge so we could shop at Trader Joes and stock up on wine for the winter. We went into the casino to get our player cards and check out the buffet. The player cards hook was that if you played for 30 minutes, you could get a free buffet dinner. Friday night was all you could eat seafood. We sat down at a couple of slots and I began to play. I was doing well but Don did much better. His machine was broken so when he asked for help, they came to fix the machine while he waited. He lucked out in a big way because they then came and apologized to him for the inconvenience, gave him $5.00 and a $70.00 gift certificate for dinner that night. So I had to sit and watch Don eat crab legs, butter running down his chin. My children know how this goes with all you can eat crab legs. He never gets full because it’s so damn much work to eat them.


We came here to Beaumont, Texas on Sunday
so we could be set up and settled before the big thunderstorm rolls through. This morning it was 75 degrees with 95% humidity when we got up. My finger joints are kind of achy and the barometric pressure is changing fast. Don calls it a “norgulfer”. That brings us up to date.

Saturday, November 7, 2015

Alabama


As we spend time in an area, regional differences always pop up to define the uniqueness of that place.  Upon entering Alabama, newspaper availability became an immediate issue for me.  I love to get the daily news…in print.  We have found that most major cities in Alabama publish papers three times a week…..Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday.  Fortunately, nothing happens in the local-world market on any of the alternate days.  Newspapers, with one exception, team up with USA today, to get their hard hitting news. On important issues, the paper will have the two articles on the same news story printed in the same or different versions in a separate section.  This happens on several stories each day.  The only exception I have found is the Tuscaloosa news paper.  I assume this is because they are the capital city of the state and they are required by law to print a paper every day.  They print at least four full pages of Bama Crimson Tide insightful news in each paper.  Religious news is on the front page….or any page of the newspapers in the state.  There is no “religious” section, because religious news is news….The Tuscaloosa paper is not circulated around the state on Saturdays, even though they do print seven days a week.

We try to tour State Capital Buildings whenever we are close.  We had an opportunity to tour one of the alternative capitals in the city of Montgomery.  The building was mostly empty of furniture and people.  When we asked why it was so empty, we were told that all government agencies except the executive branch had moved out.  My guess is that they moved to Tuscaloosa to be near the Crimson Tide.  Most rooms do not appear to have any updating for 50-60 years…..probably since George Wallace was in there.  Speaking of Wallace, the tour guide in the capital told us that Alabama is coming out with an official piece of literature stating that when Governor Wallace was at the University of Alabama where black students were trying to enter, he was there to protect them and help blacks enter safely. As the tour guide said, it appears we (Alabama) are trying to re-write history.

As we tour civil rights-civil war areas, the question came to mind…What would have happened to slavery if we had not had the Civil war?  I asked several people that question.  Most said they felt that it would take something of the magnitude of the war to end slavery.  Some were clear that many in the South would never abolish it.  One younger lady said that slavery and civil rights in particular is something the “old people” just do not talk about.  She said that with younger people…she was about 40…… had little to do with civil rights….I came to the conclusion that in the long haul, we are lucky to have the civil war behind us, and we  are on the road forward.  This road will continue for several generations.

And the answer is……Yes……I feel much better now…..